A dripping tap might seem like a minor annoyance, but it wastes thousands of litres of water a year and can stain sinks, rot cabinets and damage ceilings. The good news is that many common drips and leaks are easy to fix with basic tools. Here’s how to tackle the usual suspects, and when to call a professional.

Find the Source First

Before reaching for a spanner, dry the area with a cloth and watch for the first bead of water. Check the tap spout, the base of the tap, pipe joints under the sink, the waste trap, the toilet cistern and any overflow pipes. A mirror and a torch help in tight spaces. If you cannot see the leak, wrap a dry tissue around joints and check which one becomes damp first.

• Tap spout: water drips from the nozzle when closed.
• Tap base: water appears around the base on the sink.
• Under sink: damp patches on the cabinet floor or pipe joints.
• Cistern: hissing or trickling after a flush.

Fixing a Dripping Tap

Most traditional taps use a rubber washer that wears out. Turn off the water at the isolation valve or stopcock, plug the basin, then unscrew the tap head. Remove the nut holding the spindle and prise out the old washer. Take it to a hardware shop to match a replacement. Reassemble in reverse order and open the water slowly.

Modern quarter-turn taps use ceramic cartridges instead of washers. These are replaced as a unit. Note the orientation of the cartridge before pulling it out, and fit an identical part. A smear of silicone grease on the rubber O-rings helps them seat properly. If the tap still drips after a new washer, the valve seat may be pitted. A reseating tool can grind it smooth, but sometimes it is easier to replace the tap.

Leaks Under the Sink and Along Pipes

Compression joints and waste traps are common culprits. A joint that weeps can often be cured by tightening the nut a quarter turn with a spanner. Do not overtighten, as this can crack the nut or distort the olive. If that fails, turn off the water, undo the joint, and wrap the olive with a few turns of PTFE tape before reassembling.

• Waste trap: hand-tighten the slip nuts, then a quarter turn with a spanner.
• Tap connector: replace the fibre washer if the joint still drips.
• Plastic pipe: check push-fit fittings are fully inserted and the collet is tight.
• Sealant: old plumber’s putty or silicone can be scraped out and renewed.
• Waste pipes: check the rubber seals are not twisted or missing.

Toilet Cistern Leaks and Running Loos

A running toilet wastes water constantly and can be caused by a worn flush valve washer, a faulty flapper, or a float set too high. Lift the cistern lid and watch what happens after a flush. If water continues to trickle into the pan, the flush valve is not sealing.

• Flapper or washer: clean away limescale or replace the rubber part.
• Float height: adjust the arm or the float so water stops below the overflow.
• Overflow pipe: check for drips outside; this often means the float is set too high.
• Inlet valve: if water hisses constantly, the diaphragm washer may need replacing. If the cistern is constantly filling, the inlet valve may need a new washer or a complete replacement.

When to Call a Plumber

Some leaks are beyond a DIY fix. If you have tightened joints and replaced washers but water still appears, or if you see staining on a ceiling, damp patches on walls, or a leak behind tiles, stop. Hidden leaks can cause structural damage and mould. Also call a professional for soldered copper joints, low water pressure throughout the house, or any work on gas water heaters.

• Water coming through a ceiling or light fitting.
• A leak you cannot access without cutting into walls or floors.
• No hot water or a boiler losing pressure repeatedly.
• A sewage smell or a blocked drain that keeps returning.

A professional can also advise on water pressure and pipe sizing if you are planning a new bathroom.

Simple Habits to Prevent Future Drips

Know where your stopcock is and check it turns freely once a year. Fit isolation valves on every tap and appliance so you can shut off water locally. In winter, lag exposed pipes in lofts and garages. Finally, avoid forcing taps closed; a gentle turn is enough to stop the flow without crushing the washer.